mokudekiru

There’s lots of good reasons to live in Japan for a while — learn about a vastly different culture, pick up a new language, learn to love eating octopus, memorize every Arashi song ever created…

…but I’ve discovered there’s one great and often overlooked benefit of spending time in Japan: never be at a loss for words again, especially in large groups of people you don’t know.

(Not because you should pull the Japan card whenever possible and start shoving stories full of wa down everyone’s throats… no one likes that.) Instead, it’s because of what I like to call “The Japan Paradox”.

Background
Ever heard of the Birthday Paradox? It says that once you get more than 23 people in a room together, it’s more likely than not that at least 2 people share a birthday. Just 23 people!! It’s counterintuitive, but true if you do the math.

Japan Paradox Algorithm
Now, being a computer scientist, I’m rather fond of algorithms. Earlier this summer, I started to notice that I had developed an algorithm for functioning in group social situations where I was meeting new people. In particular, that meeting new people used to be difficult for me but isn’t as bad anymore. Part of this could be attributed to maturity (ha!), but the rest is most certainly the Japan Paradox. Here’s my algorithm:

If there are more than 4 people present:
1. Find the person in the group who has lived in Japan before
2. Talk to them about Japan
3. Oh look, it’s already time to go??

“But wait!” you must be thinking, “How do you come across so many people who happen to have lived in Japan/know Japanese/have some kind of connection to Japan?” Well, that’s what makes it a paradox!

Seriously though, this has happened to me on numerous occasions, and yes, usually in groups of people I have never met before. The most recent example of this, Exhibit A, was a MeFi meetup I attended a couple of weeks ago here in Pittsburgh. I came in, sat down, and my username (mokudekiru) drew attention from a guy who had apparently lived in Japan for 3 years! Who knew. Culture shock anecdotes and jdrama recommendations flying back and forth, and now I’m doing some Japanese help via email for one of his friends trying to learn Japanese (if the people I’m talking about here are reading this…well, hi!) The meetup was around 10-12 people while I was present.

The Wa-dar
The only potentially tricky step of my algorithm above is step 1. You sort of have to look for little signs that another Japan-er might be in your midst. Thanks to my coincidentally Japanese-sounding name, they usually ask me and I can say “no, I’m not, but I lived there…” and it’s on. Otherwise, making references to matcha or eating octopus might do the trick, as well as being on the lookout for little references others will make. And sometimes, you don’t know what it is about the person, but you just have a hunch. Hence, wa-dar. I’m still perfecting mine.

Demographics of the Japan Paradox
Okay okay, so it has to be related to the people I hang out with — clearly if you pick four people off the street in podunk Wyoming, there’s not a high chance you’ll find your Japan person. As a computer science student, I mostly run around in circles of well-educated engineers, undergrads, grad students, and the youngest part of the workforce.

I have definitely noticed some sort of engineering-Japan Paradox connection though. Both last summer and this summer, I’ve participated in research internships for computer oriented types (last year was CS/ECE, this year the research is in the learning sciences, so CS, Psych, and Linguistics). The two internships were on opposite sides of the country, and each consisted of ~15 undergrads. Both last year and this year, out of each group of 15 there were THREE people who had lived in Japan before. That’s 20%. Back at school, there’s an insane number of CS/ECE kids who have gone to Japan or at least are taking Japanese, and on the flip side, in J-Net, the Japan Club for our university, outside of East Asian Languages and Cultures majors, engineers are probably the next most represented (disproportionately so, given the size of the engineering school vs. the rest of the university).

It’s also a time/age thing. Even when I lived there (’06-’07) I didn’t feel like it was such a big thing as it is now — now it’s almost to the point of absurdity where I feel like every engineer takes a summer there. Not that this is a problem — comparing Japan stories is endlessly entertaining, and with a large number of people interested, but perhaps not having gotten to the living-in-Japan stage, having Japan-related expertise is highly valued.

So, if you find yourself in a group of 18-30 year old educated engineers, my Japan Paradox Algorithm is likely to succeed. Otherwise, YMMV, and I think we’d need some real demographic info about who learns Japanese and/or visits Japan from the US, to find out whether the Japan Paradox is more generalizable. Please comment if you have a Japan Paradox story or opinion!

Four Lessons Learned on 1/1/10:

1) Don’t EVER. And I mean EVER. Attempt to go to Asakusa on New Years. That might have been the largest crowd I have ever seen.
2) Bring your passport when checking into hotels in Tokyo, aka don’t leave it in Kobe. Whoops.
3) The hot drinks that come out of vending machines on the street and convenience stores are hot enough to hurt your hands. Mostly because they are in metal cans.
4) Kinki Kids has at least 100,000 fans, and I met all of them. About half are girls under 17. About half are women over 45.

Five Strange things seen on 1/1/10:

Unenthusiastic Daikon, Asakusa

Star Wars Pachinko, Tokyo Dome City

Unko-san characters (yes, it is what it looks like, “unko” means “poop”), Tokyo Dome City

Cold Cre Hot Creape, Tokyo Dome City

Apparently not only can you cross crepes and creeps to get creapes, you also can stop halfway in the middle of their name to decide whether they are hot or cold. FYI it was delicious. When I am fat I’m blaming you, Japan, and your non-Japanese yet delicious snack food.

School of Lock (for those who were rejected from School of Rock?), Tokyo Dome City

I am in JAPAN. Right now. Surprised? So am I, sorta. Mostly because of the timeline of planning this trip:

Plane ticket for Saturday – purchased on Wednesday
Train ticket for Saturday at 6:10 am – purchased on Saturday at 5:30 am

Yeah, ギリギリ (leaving things until the last minute) is how I roll, apparently.

One troublesome thing about traveling to Japan:
Getting here (here being my friend Yuka’s house) took 27 hours, but really, it took the entire weekend, because with the time difference, I left my home at 5:45 am on Saturday morning, and arrived here around midnight on Sunday night. Whew. But with a few hours to the airport, 2 hours of delay while sitting in the plane (waiting for connecting passengers, de-icing the plane, and otherwise chillin’), 12 hours of flying (6+ of which were spent asleep! I won’t be a 時差惚け！) in business class, which is freaking amazing, an hour or so of customs and finding my bag, picking up my rental phone, changing some $$ into 円, and buying an adapter so I can actually charge my laptop here… I decided it was time to find out where I was going.

For my first week in Japan, I’ll be staying with my friend Yuka. I contacted her about a week ago on the off-chance her family would be nice enough to let me stay here, but realized that her email address had changed and the only way I could contact her was via mixi-message (Mixi is sort of the Japanese equivalent of Facebook.) So I’d told her when I was coming, my flights, etc., but we hadn’t quite gotten around to exchanging email addresses and phone numbers. So right before I left America I sent a mixi message asking Yuka for her contact info. I was pretty certain she’d have time to respond before I got there.

So I picked up my rental phone, stood in the station, figuring out how to use the damn thing, found the web browser, logged into mixi, was delighted to see there was in fact a message from Yuka, opened it, realized there’s no way to copy/paste from a website (or at least I couldn’t figure out how to do it), got out a piece of paper, and wrote down phone numbers and email addresses.

I found some appropriate train and shinkansen (bullet train) tickets and headed towards Tokyo, and wrote Yuka an email on the way. Contact stablished!

At Tokyo station I looked around for some food to eat. None of the typical bento looked particularly more appealing than any of the other typical bento, so I was unimpressed. Instead, I found a girl giving out free samples of Earl Grey flavored bagels, which was one of the most amazing tasting things I’ve ever had, and decided I needed more of whatever they were selling. I gazed longingly at various green-tea flavored pastries and settled on this green-tea-white-chocolate muffin. It was one of the most delicious things I have eaten in a long time. Look at that green, moist fluffiness…

After paying, I made a run for it and actually made the bullet train in time, with at least 1 minute to spare (doing great!) I changed trains at Shin-Osaka and started heading toward Yuka’s house.

Or so I thought.

I made a critical mistake, which was that after stop #2 or so, I completely stopped paying attention. This means that when we got to Amagasaki, I should have changed trains. But I just sat there, because, again, I wasn’t really paying attention. I played with my cell phone, I people-watched a group of guys across from me on the train (who were talking about me briefly, and I got to hear the inaugural “gaijin” said about me). Anyway, after a couple more stops I was thinking “this is a strange train station name that I’ve never heard…” and after one more, I was in Itami. ITAMI!??! I know where Itami is, and that’s NOT where I’m going. Okay, time to turn around. I got back to Amagasaki and made sure to take the correct train. Suddenly the station names were extremely familiar and comforting. I emailed Yuka to explain why I was late (whoops). It should not have taken over an hour of riding local trains, but it did.

Finally I made it to Yuka’s. Her dad predicted exactly where I had gone wrong on the train AND at what station I had realized my mistake. Yuka gave me some soup and kurumi-pan and chocolate, and we hung out for a while. Walking into her house was a bit weird, since I came here once, at the very end of my stay in Japan. So it’s been 2.5 years, but actually being in her house, it feels like no time has passed at all…

So I’ve only come to Japan from outside the country twice before this. Once in 2005 (my first visit) and once in 2006 (the beginning of my study-abroad year). Each time I arrived, everything would always seem extremely weird, bizarre, foreign, cute, polite, stylish, small, etc. I was always hit in the face with the pure Japanese-ness of it all in a very jarring, Lost-in-Translation kind of way.

The weird thing with this trip is that everything seems totally normal. Yup, there’s suddenly a lot of Japanese people, stores selling Japanese things that I love, ads featuring celebrities that I fangirl, those train station sounds, riding on one side of the elevator, every professional person in a cute and very ironed-looking uniform, kanji freaking everywhere… I’m still thinking oh-my-god-I’m-in-Japan but I’m not reacting to things in that fresh-gaijin EVERYTHING IS CRAZY HERE kind of way.

Is culture shock like riding a bike?

Or maybe it’s just that this time, instead of everything being weird and overwhelming, it just feels like home.

But in the first almost-24 hours of being here… there have been a number of things that I hadn’t actually forgotten about existing, but I sort of forgot to expect, and were pleasant surprises:

- Heated toilet seats. I am back in “it’s winter so your toilet should be cold” mode from America. What a freaking pleasant surprise the first time I went to the bathroom here.

- Exactly how pleasant Japanese baths are. Yeah I miss ofuro on a daily basis, but after primarily taking showers for most of college, the whole ofuro routine is SO NICE. Especially after traveling for 27 hours, soaking in 42°C water late at night in the winter… so completely wonderful.

- amado (storm shutters) – they’re on the outside of the windows in the room I’m staying in. They just make the room pitch-dark even when it’s midday. I used to actually not like amado when I lived here (one of my host families always closed them) because it threw off my sleep cycle to have it be dark like 4-am in my room at 10 am, but again, after the whole 27-hour journey thing, the ability to sleep soundly until 10 in complete darkness is very appreciated.

For now, I’ll indulge in a little bit of tv before Yuka brings back μ (her singing group) to practice here and I reunite with 5 other people I haven’t seen in 2.5 years. I’m going to their concert tonight, and it should be FAB.

Jya ne.